Hyundai Tucson Battery: Specs, Fitment & Common Faults

Confirmed: a genuine, widespread parasitic draw issue affects multiple 2022-2024 Tucson models — plus a specific fuse-pull fix for intermittent drain spikes, and a jump-start trick when the standard method fails.

Illustration for editorial purposes

OEM Part Number: 37110-1R680

Accuracy note: Hyundai's own owner documentation confirms the battery label naming convention directly — always check your existing battery's label for the exact code (e.g. "AGM70L-DIN") rather than assuming by model year alone, since capacity and technology have evolved across generations.

2016-2021 Tucson (TL)	Hyundai OEM: 37110-1R680
Current generation (NX4), Start/Stop	Hyundai's own label reference: AGM70L-DIN — 70Ah, RC120min, 760A (EN)
Important	Never fit a standard lead-acid battery in place of AGM or EFB on a Start/Stop-equipped car — this can trigger warning lights and cause premature failure, since it isn't designed for the frequent cycling involved.

Confirmed: A Genuine, Widespread Issue Worth Knowing About

This is genuinely worth knowing if your Tucson's battery keeps going flat despite being relatively new: a genuine, confirmed parasitic draw issue has been acknowledged as affecting multiple 2022-2024 Tucson models, related to electronic modules such as the Body Control Module or infotainment system drawing current even when the car is switched off. If you're facing repeated flat batteries and a dealer seems unfamiliar with the issue, it's worth knowing this is a genuinely recognised, widespread pattern rather than a fault unique to your car. A genuinely useful diagnostic benchmark worth knowing: typical background drain should be under 50 milliamps — testing with a multimeter and isolating circuits by removing fuses one at a time can help identify which specific circuit is responsible if yours is measuring higher.

A genuinely specific, real fix worth knowing about on related diesel models: one documented case found the background drain spiking briefly every few seconds, tracked down to a component sometimes referred to as the "memory fuse" — pulling this specific fuse reduced the drain to zero completely. If you're chasing a similar intermittent spike pattern rather than a constant drain, it's worth specifically testing this fuse rather than assuming a more complex electrical fault.

It's also worth knowing a genuinely practical jump-start technique if the standard method fails: connecting the jump leads plus-to-plus and minus-to-minus directly between batteries, rather than the more commonly recommended minus-to-engine-block method, has resolved cases where a completely standard jump start attempt failed to get the car started despite the dashboard and accessories powering up correctly.

The Part Everyone Blames First, Not Always Correctly

A car that won't start gets blamed on the battery more often than any other component, and it's right often enough to make that assumption a reasonable first check. But it's not always the actual cause, which is worth knowing before spending money on a replacement that doesn't fix anything.

Before you buy: battery size, capacity and type (standard vs AGM/EFB for stop-start systems) vary by trim and engine. Always confirm against your VIN before ordering.

What It Does

The 12V battery provides the power needed to start the engine and runs electrical systems when the engine isn't turning. On cars with stop-start technology, the battery works much harder than on older designs, since the engine switches off and restarts far more frequently — which is exactly why these cars need a specific AGM or EFB battery type rather than a standard unit.

Warning Signs, DIY Difficulty & Aftermarket Advice

These are the same regardless of make or model — see our full Battery Guide for warning signs to watch for, confirming fitment against your VIN, and matching the right technology (standard, EFB, AGM) when buying aftermarket.

More Hyundai Battery

The same part, covered across other Hyundai models.