Mitsubishi ASX Battery: Specs, Fitment & Common Faults

On the ASX, some owners on related models have genuinely had to escalate to Mitsubishi customer service directly before a confirmed faulty battery was approved for replacement.

Illustration for editorial purposes

OEM Part Numbers

Genuinely important to know: the 1.6 petrol with Start/Stop specifically requires AGM technology, while other engines can use conventional lead-acid — confirm your exact engine before ordering, since fitting AGM where a conventional battery originally sat (or vice versa) isn't always a straightforward swap.

1.6 petrol, Start/Stop	242-243mm x 175mm x 190mm, AGM, minimum 60Ah, 640A (EN)
1.6/1.8/1.8 4WD petrol, standard	278mm x 175mm x 190mm, minimum 70Ah, 720A (EN)
1.8 DI-D/1.8 DI-D 4WD diesel, Start/Stop	278mm x 175mm x 190mm, AGM, minimum 70Ah, 720A (EN)
Base hold-down	B13 across all standard variants

The Part Everyone Blames First, Not Always Correctly

A car that won't start gets blamed on the battery more often than any other component, and it's right often enough to make that assumption a reasonable first check. But it's not always the actual cause, which is worth knowing before spending money on a replacement that doesn't fix anything.

Before you buy: battery size, capacity and type (standard vs AGM/EFB for stop-start systems) vary by trim and engine. Always confirm against your VIN before ordering.

What It Does

The 12V battery provides the power needed to start the engine and runs electrical systems when the engine isn't turning. On cars with stop-start technology, the battery works much harder than on older designs, since the engine switches off and restarts far more frequently — which is exactly why these cars need a specific AGM or EFB battery type rather than a standard unit.

A Genuinely Honest, Real Consumer Account Worth Knowing About

If a dealer initially resists replacing a battery you're confident is genuinely faulty, this is genuinely worth knowing: documented cases on related Mitsubishi models describe having to escalate to Mitsubishi customer service directly before a confirmed faulty battery was approved for replacement, with one car's battery running flat six separate times before it was finally replaced. It's genuinely worth persisting and escalating beyond an initial dealer refusal if a battery has been independently confirmed faulty.

A genuinely useful point worth knowing about deep discharge events: once a 12V battery has been deeply discharged even once, it's genuinely more likely to fail again, since the underlying capacity has been diminished by that single event — worth being cautious even if a battery tests "fine" immediately after a flat.

It's also genuinely worth knowing that if you're ever jump-starting the car, using a solid, unpainted ground point such as a visible bolt on the engine block, rather than a bracket bolted to a painted surface, gives a considerably more reliable connection.

Warning Signs, DIY Difficulty & Aftermarket Advice

These are the same regardless of make or model — see our full Battery Guide for warning signs to watch for, confirming fitment against your VIN, and matching the right technology (standard, EFB, AGM) when buying aftermarket.

More Mitsubishi Battery

The same part, covered across other Mitsubishi models.