Hyundai Kona Alternator: Specs, Fitment & Common Faults

On the Kona, resting and running voltage figures genuinely reveal whether the alternator is charging correctly.

Illustration for editorial purposes

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OEM Part Number: 37300-2B410 (as quoted in catalogue listings — confirm via VIN) — aftermarket alternators Bosch 1 986 A01 897 / Hella 8EL 015 637-241

Accuracy note: Covers the Hyundai Kona (2017-) as listed in the UK aftermarket catalogues. Alternators are sold by output (amps), pulley type and plug, and the same model usually has two or three units depending on engine, start-stop and the electrical load of the trim — a 120 A unit on a car built for 150 A will undercharge, and a rigid pulley on a car designed for a freewheel clutch pulley will shred belts. The references below are UK aftermarket catalogue listings for this generation, labelled by brand; many are remanufactured exchange units that carry a core charge until the old alternator is returned. Genuine numbers are shown only where a listing quotes one. Check the amp rating, pulley and plug stamped on the old unit, or confirm via VIN, before ordering.

Alternators (aftermarket)	Bosch 1 986 A01 897 (130 A, freewheel clutch pulley, 6 ribs, 57.9 mm, new, plug 365, double pivot mounting, 183 mm long, excludes vacuum pump); Bosch 0 986 085 610 (130 A, reman exchange, single pivot mounting, excludes vacuum pump, core charge GBP 23.10); Hella 8EL 015 637-241 (130 A, belt pulley, 6 ribs, 58 mm, new, qualified fitting advised); Lucas LRA04160 (130 A, freewheel clutch pulley, 6 ribs, 58 mm, reman, plug 0213, core charge GBP 50.24); AS-PL A3502S (130 A, freewheel clutch pulley, 6 ribs, 58 mm, new, PL_3307 plug); AS-PL A9534S (120 A, freewheel clutch pulley, 6 ribs, 58 mm, new, PL_3307 plug); AS-PL A9480S (150 A, freewheel clutch pulley, 6 ribs, 58 mm, new, PL_2305 plug); Rotovis 9091461 (130 A, freewheel clutch pulley, 6 ribs, 58 mm, reman, COM plug)
Outputs & variants	The 12 V alternator is a six-rib 57 to 58 mm freewheel clutch unit at 120 A, 130 A or 150 A; 130 A is by far the most common fitment and covers the 1.0 T-GDi and 1.6 CRDi, with 150 A for the 1.6 T-GDi and 2.0 cars. The 48 V mild-hybrid Kona uses a separate 230 A seven-rib starter-generator.
Genuine (OE) numbers quoted	AS-PL A9534S quotes 37300-2B410; AS-PL A9480S quotes 37300-2J355; AS-PL A3502S quotes 37300-2B960.
Fitment notes	Confirm 120 A, 130 A or 150 A from the old unit because all share the same six-rib freewheel pulley; the 48 V starter-generator is not interchangeable with the 12 V alternator and needs high-voltage precautions; Lucas, DRI, Walker, Autoelectro and Bosch exchange units carry refundable core charges from GBP 23 to GBP 251; the Bosch units exclude engines with an alternator-driven vacuum pump and Bosch recommends renewing the belt.

A Genuinely Useful Diagnostic Benchmark Worth Knowing — Hyundai Kona Alternator

If you're trying to determine whether the alternator is genuinely at fault, this is worth knowing: with the engine off, battery voltage should read between roughly 12.4 and 12.7 volts. Once started, this should rise to between roughly 13.7 and 14.7 volts if charging correctly. If a warning light appears while driving, turning off every accessory you safely can and seeing if the warning clears tells you whether there's still enough charging capacity to get you somewhere safely.

A genuinely important safety warning worth knowing before attempting a DIY alternator swap: one documented case saw the positive battery cable briefly make contact with the exhaust manifold shield during removal, causing a spark. It's worth fully disconnecting the battery's negative terminal first and routing cables carefully away from hot exhaust components.

It's also worth knowing that on some models, the fuse protecting the alternator circuit isn't a conventional, easily replaceable fuse at all, but a shunt in a different physical location.

Hyundai Kona Alternator: Often Blamed on the Battery Instead

On the Hyundai Kona, dim lights, slow starts, a battery that won't hold charge — these symptoms point equally to a weak battery or a failing alternator, and that overlap is why so many replacements target the wrong part first, with the real problem only surfacing weeks later.

Hyundai Kona Alternator: Watch: Replacing It

🎬 Watch: Hyundai Elantra 2.0 Alternator Replacement Change with Serpentine Belt 2017 and Others Similar (sister (hyundai elantra ad 2.0 nu))

Watch on YouTube ↗

No Kona-specific video; Kona 2.0 MPI shares Nu engine/alternator mount

Before you buy: alternator output rating varies by engine size and trim, particularly on cars with more onboard electronics. Always confirm against your VIN before ordering.

Hyundai Kona Alternator: What It Does

Electricity generation while the Hyundai Kona's engine is running is the alternator's job, charging the battery and directly powering the electrical systems. When it's working properly, the battery mostly just handles engine starting and short demand spikes, not day-to-day electrical load.

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Hyundai Kona Alternator: Warning Signs, DIY Difficulty & Aftermarket Advice

These are the same regardless of make or model — see our full Alternator Guide for symptoms to watch for (plus a genuinely useful two-minute test to confirm it's not the battery instead), confirming the right amperage and fitment against your VIN, and which brands are worth trusting.

More Hyundai Alternator

The same part, covered across other Hyundai models.