Mitsubishi Outlander Battery: Specs, Fitment & Common Faults
A genuinely specific PHEV technical quirk: the 12V auxiliary battery only charges when the drive battery itself is actively charging — plus Mitsubishi's own manual gives a genuinely poor jump-start grounding point, and a persistent consumer account worth knowing.
Opens live listings in a new tab.
OEM Part Number: HJ-S46B24L
| PHEV, 12V auxiliary battery, original supplier designation | Yuasa HJ-S46B24L(S) — 45Ah, 325A, AGM, vented with gas-vent tube |
|---|---|
| PHEV, genuine Mitsubishi reference | Mitsubishi OEM: 8201A216 (also cross-referenced as 28800-AZC35, 28800-YZZQX) |
| 2023-2025 PHEV, high-voltage drive battery (not the 12V auxiliary) | Mitsubishi OEM: 9490A168 — a completely different, much more expensive component |
Mitsubishi Outlander Battery: The Part Everyone Blames First, Not Always Correctly
On the Mitsubishi Outlander, no single component gets blamed for a no-start more than the battery, and often that blame is justified, making it a sensible first check. But it isn't the whole story every time, so it's worth confirming before spending on a replacement that might not actually fix anything.
Mitsubishi Outlander Battery: What It Does
Whenever the Mitsubishi Outlander's engine isn't turning, the 12V battery is what keeps electrical systems running and handles the next start. That workload is much higher on stop-start versions, given how often the engine switches off and restarts, which is exactly why they call for an AGM or EFB battery rather than a standard type.
Opens live listings in a new tab.
A Genuinely Specific, Real Technical Quirk Worth Knowing on the PHEV — Mitsubishi Outlander Battery
If you own the plug-in hybrid version and find the auxiliary 12V battery keeps going flat despite regularly plugging the car in, this is genuinely worth knowing: the auxiliary battery only actually charges from the main drive battery at the same time the drive battery itself is being charged. Simply leaving the car plugged in doesn't necessarily mean the 12V auxiliary battery is being topped up, if the drive battery isn't also actively charging at that same moment — worth checking the charging indicator is genuinely active, not just that the cable is connected, if you're relying on plugging in to keep the auxiliary battery maintained.
It's also genuinely worth knowing an honest, persistent consumer account worth bearing in mind if a dealer initially resists replacing a demonstrably faulty auxiliary battery: one documented case saw an owner have to escalate to Mitsubishi customer service directly before a confirmed faulty battery was approved for replacement, while another car's battery ran flat six separate times before it was finally replaced. It's genuinely worth persisting and escalating beyond an initial dealer refusal if a battery has been independently confirmed faulty. It's also worth knowing that once a 12V battery has been deeply discharged even once, it's genuinely more likely to fail again, since the underlying capacity has been diminished by that single event — worth being cautious even if a battery tests "fine" immediately after a flat, since replacement within about a year often follows a genuine deep discharge regardless.
Mitsubishi Outlander Battery: Warning Signs, DIY Difficulty & Aftermarket Advice
These are the same regardless of make or model — see our full Battery Guide for warning signs to watch for, confirming fitment against your VIN, and matching the right technology (standard, EFB, AGM) when buying aftermarket.
More Mitsubishi Battery
The same part, covered across other Mitsubishi models.