Subaru Forester Rear Suspension: Specs, Fitment & Common Faults

A genuinely important, UK-specific finding: turbo Foresters have Self-Levelling Suspension as standard, and the matching SLS strut is expensive and dealer-only — often cheaper to convert away from SLS entirely than replace like-for-like.

Illustration of a suspension strut and coil spring

Illustration for editorial purposes

OEM Part Numbers

Accuracy note: we weren't able to verify a confident Subaru Forester rear suspension part number at the time of writing. Please confirm the correct part via a Subaru dealer or parts specialist using your VIN.

Often the Quieter Half of the Conversation

Front suspension tends to get most of the attention since it also handles steering, but the rear axle wears too — often more subtly, with symptoms that are easy to write off as road noise until they get worse.

Before you buy: rear suspension design and components vary by trim, body style and engine weight. Always confirm against your VIN before ordering.

What It Does

The rear suspension manages how the rear wheels respond to the road surface, working alongside the front suspension to control body movement and keep the car stable under braking and cornering. Depending on trim, the Forester uses different rear axle designs, which affects both ride character and which specific components need replacing when something wears.

Fitment & Compatibility

Rear suspension components differ between body styles and trims of the Forester, with sportier trims typically using stiffer springs and dampers than standard versions. Always confirm the exact parts fitted to your specific trim before ordering. Whether you're sourcing a replacement rear suspension for your Subaru Forester from a dealer, specialist, or online marketplace, always check compatibility against your registration or VIN before buying, and confirm you're ordering the correct side — driver's side (RH in the UK) or passenger side (LH in the UK) — since these are not interchangeable.

Common Faults

Symptoms of Failure

Clunking over bumps from the rear — often worn bushes or links rather than the springs or dampers themselves.
Uneven rear tyre wear — can point to a suspension alignment issue or a worn component affecting wheel geometry.
Rear end feels bouncy or unsettled — a classic sign of worn rear dampers no longer controlling spring movement.
Visible sagging on one side — can indicate a broken or significantly weakened rear spring.

DIY Replacement Difficulty

Difficulty varies by component — bushes and links are a moderate DIY job, while spring and damper replacement typically needs a spring compressor and carries real safety risk if done incorrectly. Expect 1–2 hours per side for simpler components, or significantly more, or a garage visit, for spring and damper work.

A Genuinely Important, UK-Specific Finding Worth Knowing

This is genuinely important to know if you own a UK-spec turbo Forester: these models have Self-Levelling Suspension fitted as standard at the rear, and if a rear coil spring needs replacing, you specifically need the matching SLS strut rather than a standard, non-SLS unit. This specific part is only available through dealers and can be genuinely expensive — so much so that it's often actually cheaper to convert away from SLS entirely, replacing the full rear suspension setup with non-self-levelling components, rather than sourcing the like-for-like SLS part. It's genuinely worth getting a quote for both approaches before assuming a like-for-like replacement is your only option.

A genuinely alarming, real safety point worth knowing about corrosion: rust affecting a rear coil spring isn't always just cosmetic — one documented case saw a spring rust through so completely that it broke apart entirely, with the owner finding half the coil sitting in their garage. It's genuinely worth having rear coil springs properly inspected for corrosion on an older car, particularly one that's spent years on salted winter roads, rather than assuming a spring will simply sag gradually before failing.

It's also genuinely worth knowing an honest account worth bearing in mind: one documented case saw a dealer replace a broken coil spring, only for a loud banging noise to appear just eleven days later, with both rear struts found to be leaking. The working theory was that the original faulty spring had placed extra stress on the struts before it was replaced, contributing to their premature failure — worth having the struts checked alongside a spring replacement if the spring failure was severe or had clearly been developing for some time, rather than assuming the struts are automatically unaffected.

OEM vs. Aftermarket

Reputable aftermarket suspension components from established brands are widely regarded as safe, reliable alternatives to OEM parts. Given how directly this system affects handling and safety, it's worth avoiding unbranded budget parts regardless of which specific component needs replacing.

More Subaru Rear Suspension Guides

The same part, covered across other Subaru models.