Mitsubishi ASX Engine Mount: Specs, Fitment & Common Faults
On the ASX, a garage on a related model genuinely quoted £600 for a mount part that's actually available for under £24.
Illustration for editorial purposes
OEM Part Numbers
The Part That Quietly Absorbs Everything
Engine mounts do a genuinely thankless job — holding a violently vibrating engine in place while isolating that vibration from the cabin — and when they wear out, the change is often gradual enough that owners adjust to it without realising something's actually wrong.
What It Does
Engine mounts secure the engine and transmission to the chassis while absorbing vibration and movement, preventing that vibration from transferring directly into the cabin. Most versions of the ASX use several mounts working together — typically at least one on each side of the engine plus a torque mount — and a single failed mount can throw off the whole assembly's balance.
Fitment & Compatibility
Mount design and positioning differ between engine sizes and transmission types (manual versus automatic) of the ASX. Always confirm the exact mounts fitted to your specific engine and transmission combination before ordering, since manual and automatic versions often use different mount designs even on the same engine. Whether you're sourcing a replacement engine mount for your Mitsubishi ASX from a dealer, specialist, or online marketplace, always check compatibility against your registration or VIN before buying, and confirm you're ordering the correct side — driver's side (RH in the UK) or passenger side (LH in the UK) — since these are not interchangeable.
Common Faults
Symptoms of Failure
- Noticeable vibration through the cabin, especially at idle — often the earliest and clearest sign of a worn mount.
- Clunking noise when accelerating or braking — points to a mount no longer properly restraining engine movement.
- Visible engine movement when revving in neutral — a worn or broken mount can allow far more movement than normal.
- Increased noise, especially over bumps — a failing mount can let the engine knock against surrounding components.
DIY Replacement Difficulty
This is a moderate-to-difficult DIY job depending on which mount needs replacing — some are easily accessible, while others require supporting the engine's weight with a jack or hoist while the mount is removed and replaced. Getting this step wrong risks damage to the engine or surrounding components. Expect 1–3 hours depending on which mount and how accessible it is on your specific engine layout.
A Genuinely Alarming, Real Pricing Discrepancy Worth Knowing About
This is genuinely worth knowing before agreeing to an expensive quote for a mount-related clunk: one documented case on a related Mitsubishi model saw a garage quote £600 for what they described as a "differential mounting" part — but the actual replacement bush needed was available from an aftermarket brand for under £24 including delivery, or as a genuine Mitsubishi part for somewhere between £50 and £100. It's genuinely worth getting a second quote if you're facing a similarly high price for what sounds like this specific job.
It's also genuinely worth knowing a useful diagnostic distinction: a clunk specifically when moving off typically points toward a worn engine or motor mount, but a separate vibration that only appears at higher speed can have an entirely unrelated cause, such as binding brake calipers — worth not assuming every noise or vibration issue shares the same root cause.
OEM vs. Aftermarket
Reputable aftermarket engine mounts are generally a safe, cost-effective alternative to OEM parts, provided they match your exact engine and transmission specification. This is one area where cheap, poorly designed mounts can genuinely accelerate wear on adjacent components, so it's worth choosing an established brand over the very cheapest option available.
More Mitsubishi Engine Mount Guides
The same part, covered across other Mitsubishi models.